Masoala National Park - going up to Ampokafo
When thinking the routes of Madagascar it is unavoidable finding oneself in front of a mesh that upholsters the Big Island with its nodal points that correspond to parks, reserves and protected areas. Numerous and diverse. As distant one from another as Berenty Reserve, located on the south, and Masoala Park of on the northeast of the island can be. It is not only about geographical distance; the contrast is visible in customs and habits. In the first case the routine of landing of a mob of whites, equipped with their prosthetic devices for grasping their dreamt reality, hauled to the hotel managed by the administration of the Reserve itself from Fort-Duphin, from there transferred to the enclosed area of the Reserve in order to enjoy the show of the pure nature, sent back to the hotel, some folk show to complete the scene, return airplane, pictures that attest having visited, brag about of having seen… Sadly ridiculous, tragically whitish. The other pole in opposition to this pathetic tourism can be the crossing of Masoala Park; it is a promise that, without not being comfortable, gets rid of prearranged expectations. Maybe more demanding in terms of experiences that, in order to give pleasure, requires to pay a tribute beyond the purely economic one.
Maroantsetra is an insignificant sea port and, at the same time, an obligatory stopover toward the Masoala Park. Her situation stamps her mark in the very specific atmosphere that insists in both the outlying and the cosmopolitan of the town. From here we leave to go deep into one of the places of Madagascar where still, fortunately, once the river crossed in canoe, to be on the way means to walk. An approach so obvious, based on the linguistic trascript in danger of extinction, as rooted out by the car-based habits. The planned route for the eight days in the company of a guide - Euphrasie, of a carrier - Paul and of the second one - Clarel, starting from the third day, and with an additional partner that joined our group in the last moment, Paul, the Australian.
